Barking Bicycles: Biking with your Dog

Having one of those days where you just cant get motivated to put on your running shoes? Do your runs with the dogs just leave them wanting more? Is Fido alternating looks between his leash and you? Is your dog faster than your short legs can keep up with? Maybe you should give biking with your dog a try.

I want to say first that there are risks involved when biking with your dog. Done improperly and you or your dog could be injured. I have been thrown over my handlebars when my dog spooked and came to and instant dead stop directly in front my my tire. I got up with only a few bruises and I missed hitting my dog, but both of us could have been be hurt in this easily preventable accident. The right equipment and training go a long way to keeping everyone in one piece.

Ouch! This was from canicross not biking, but you get the idea.

There are several ways to bike with your dog each requiring different training and equipment. I would NOT recommend biking your dog leash in hand. One bad turn or lunge and your dog is in your spokes or you are on the ground. I have biked my dog with a leash, dog harness, and old beater mountain bike. The money invested on equipment does not have to be large, but there is quality equipment out there that can make the process much easier.

First you need a bike. A mountain bike or wide tired stable bike is best. Your five pound road bike may be nice when powering down the road, but it doesn't offer much resistance if your dog ever decides to bolt at a squirrel. It can also be hard on your dog to spend too much time biking down asphalt roads or sidewalk paths. A bike you can take on some dirt will be appreciated. Also have reliable brakes. It's harder to stop with a dog pulling in front of you. To protect yourself you will probably want some gloves, and smarter people than me should wear a bike helmet.

A fleece cap will pads my brains right?

I do most of my dog biking on dirt roads and it shows. Nothing screams I've been biking in the muck like a mud stripe going from your butt to your shoulder blades. If you don't find this attractive, you may want to get yourself a set of bike fenders. On your way out don't forget to grab a water bottle to take with you. Fast moving dogs need refreshments!


Unfortunatly fenders do not fit on dogs.


The most common way to bike with your dog is at your side using bike attachments such as the Springer bike attachment or WalkyDog. These can attach to your bikes seat post or wheel hub. These are good if you have a dog you want to bike in a heel position beside your bike. There is also little training involved to get your dog on the road. I have not used any of these attachments myself, but I would caution people to keep close watch on their dog to make sure you are not forcing them to maintain faster speeds or longer distances than the dogs would like. Your dog is at your side and is required to go at your speed with little say in the matter aside from stopping and getting drug along. I also think there is an increased risk of injury to your dog in the event that you lose control and crash on your bike. It is not required, but for your dogs comfort I would suggest using a dog harness instead of attaching the leash to your dog's collar.  At least then if you crash you will not wrench your dog's neck to the side.

Another method for biking with your dog which I use is bikejoring. Instead of being at your side, your dog is out front attached to a bungee line and can even pull you along like a dryland sled. This requires more training because your dog will be out at least six feet in front and must be taught when to turn, stop, slow, and stay our of harms way. The only physical control your have over your dog is your brakes.

When I started bikejoring I used very simple equipment. I clipped a Ruffwear Roamer leash on my bikes handlebar stem above the front tire. Attaching the leash to the handlebar stem is much safer than attaching to the handlebars. Your steering is unaffected and the bike remains relatively stable. An issue myself and others have run into is if your dog slows your leash can rub or go under the front tire. Urban Mushing has a homemade solution they call an antitosser to prevent this.

Here the leash is clipped around the handlebar stem. I don't have a handy antitosser.

Another option is to get yourself a bikejoring antennae. This device sticks out over your tire and allows your leash or line to attach out in front of the tire. I use the BAY-o-net from Nooksack Racing. It is easy to attach and remove, but is very secure and stable on our rides. I bought it with their 10 foot bungee line that attaches easily to Nix's harness.

The advantages of having my dog 10 feet in front of me are I have plenty of time to stop and if I always bike keeping him in front, I never go faster than he wants. It is easy for him to stop or slow if needed. The disadvantages are I have a dog on a long line 10 feet in front of me. I have to trust that he will not bolt out in front of a car and that he will follow my direction cues. As much as possible I stick to low traffic country roads or trails. Nix knows to stick to the side of the road, but it only takes one bad turn in front of a truck.

I do not think a dog should try bikejoring without first being trained through walking and canicross which I discuss in my previous post about running with your dog. This is a safer more controlled environment for your dog to learn commands and rules of the road. An interesting side effect I have had from this is my dog refuses to bike on the right side of the road. After miles of running facing traffic he has decided that's the safe way to go and if it means he will stay to the side well away from traffic I've decided to oblige.

Deciding how you want to bike with your dog can be influenced by personal preference, local surroundings, or the personality of your dog. If Nix didn't take so readily to being out front pulling, bikjoring would not work well. Two of my dog love to be out front where the action is, but Lupe is content to run at my side. If she was about 15 pounds larger she would probably be a better candidate for a side bike attachment.
Not all dogs trust bikes. They have big wheels, move fast, and come equipped with crazy colored people in big hats and funny tights.

What are these things? Why are giant beetles clutching their heads?

You may need to spend some time acclimating your dog to your bike before you can take him out on the road. You can try these steps to desensitize your dog. If at any point your dog gets scared take a step back and give your dog more time to adjust. You can even make it a rewarding experience by clicker training and rewarding your dog for exploring your bike, being attached to the bike etc.

1) Set your bike out where your dog spends some time like out in the yard. Let them sniff and get comfortable with its existence.

2) Walk your bike around. Do not bump your dog or get angry with them. Making your dog afraid of your bike wheels is not a good way to keep your dog from getting run over. Training is.

3) Sit on the bike.

4) Slowly ride the bike.

5) Attach your dog to the bike.

6) Bike in a relaxed safe setting with your dog attached.

Nix used to be a little skiddish if the bike was to close behind him, but once he got out front pulling he no longer cared. Now he doesn't seemed bothered by it at all. Observe your dog and don't force them to do anything that is obviously scaring them. Some dogs can be scared by the sound of changing gears. Be mindful of this especially if your dog is running at your side.

The end goal of this is to go out and have fun with your dog. Bikejoring requires cooperation between me and my dog that has bonded us closer together. Nix has learned to look to me in unfamiliar situations plus he just loves getting out there to run. You also can't beat the view.